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Re: Isolating gurdies

Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 5:11 pm
by JKD
Lulu - Thanks for the McMaster-Carr tip. I will be ordering some fiberglass bolts and nuts for replacing the stainless steel mounting fasteners currently used on my Easthopes.

Re: Isolating gurdies

Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 9:37 am
by Scotthmt
I just found out how to post pictures

Re: Isolating gurdies

Posted: Mon Feb 16, 2015 7:44 am
by Trnaround
Those gurdies look like they are well mounted, are those pipes coming out of the valves non conductive? I have only seen the flexible orange type for non conductive hydraulic line.

Re: Isolating gurdies

Posted: Mon Feb 16, 2015 7:58 am
by Scotthmt
There are two 1' sections of non conductive orange hose before and after the gurdies, you just can't see it in the picture.

Re: Isolating gurdies

Posted: Mon Feb 16, 2015 11:13 am
by Trnaround
Oh gotcha, makes more sense. That isolation is an important one. The hydraulic lines on the pressure side are reinforced with steel as you probably know. I once had my black box values jumping around for no apparent reason and finally found that the rim or one of the gurdies was coming in contact with the connection of the pressure hose to the non conductive. Just had to tie down the hose away from the gurdies and solved the problem but the point is they definitely do conduct.

Re: Isolating gurdies

Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 9:29 pm
by Lulu
The reason for isolating the hydraulic line is the flow of fluids in the hose causes electrical current to flow in the hose's steel reinforcement braid. It is called a standing wave. You have to have at least one break on the high pressure side. It doesn't have to be long. Wrap the hose with Petro tape then electrical tape to keep the salt off. Salt build up is a great conductor and you can't always see it.