Of Tugs and Ice

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ericv
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Of Tugs and Ice

Post by ericv »

The weather alert sounded one afternoon on the VHF weather monitor we had in the kitchen followed by something to the effect of: "Rapidly developing storm force winds, seas 30 to 50 feet with freezing spray and icing conditions" (voice emphasis on the "50"). It was describing the Cape Spencer to Icy Cape general corridor during a particularly sudden winter storm in the early '90's. As I recall, the immense low pressure shifted radically and rapidly from its projected long range track only to collide with an equally fierce arctic chill. I do remember early into the evening KTOO radio playing the song "Nowhere to Run, Nowhere to Hide" by Martha Reeves and the Vandellas, a friend making a remark to the irony of the lyrics in conjunction with the Gulf weather. Little did we know what was really taking place while we sat warm and snug by the woodstove with hot coffee, good food, music and friends.
While it could rage off shore in the Gulf, Hoonah would lie mostly protected from the fury. This did not mean the wind doesn't scream there as well, the seas could be wicked out in Icy Straits for sure, but not like a Gulf storm. My barometer dropped like a stone and through most of the night the wind screamed like a banshee. God help any poor soul caught out in this weather I thought as I hit the rack. I awakened later to a strange silence, the winds had calmed and the temperature was moderating along with a rapidly rising barometer. I remembered there had been a small, sporadic bite of Kings recently right along the towns waterfront, on out to about the ferry terminal. It seemed, based on when the elder skiff fisherman headed out, that the bite was best fetched just prior to the break of dawn. I had a bit of ice left, my open handtroller dory had fuel, I was wide awake, it was still dark, why not give the town drag a spin?
My memory recalls that just outside the harbor breakwater I set the gear, just 1 spread per side, shallow, with a quiet easy troll along the shoreline. To starboard was the town, to port , Grave Yard Island and beyond, the darkness leading down Port Frederick. However, something didn't seem right. Even with darkness and local knowledge there loomed something enormous out in front of me, located a ways out, off the city storage dock. Additionally there was another dark image tied to the city storage dock. I set my course so I'd eventually cut between the two mystery figures that normally are not there. What came into sight in this darkened state was a scene that is hard to put into words. The enormous hulk anchored off the city storage dock was one of those huge ocean going barges that runs the outside route from the NW to probably Anchorage? The geometric pattern of usually well placed containers and cargo was all askew. Not only was the entire forward half of the barge encased in thick ice, several steel cargo containers near the front were blown open like dynamite, their goods scattered and frozen in awkward angles. A sizeable work boat was upside down, glued solid to the deck by ice. Lying nearby was a full size dump truck pitched at an angle as if thrown like a toy, frozen in place, the cab stoved in. It was the most surreal sight to troll quietly by, an extreme case of true suspended animation in an agonizing form.
Tied to the city storage dock was what vaguely resembled a stout, ocean going tug. I remember she was encased in ice to such a degree that even her primary radar was just a frozen blob. The only operational radar was rotating methodically near the very top of her tall, marker-light mast. The 3 spinner windows on the wheelhouse looked like glowing beady eyes from the light shining from within the otherwise entombed vessel. At least they performed their task well enough for the crew to peer outward and guide their operation to a safe port. The ice covered yellow safety lights that typically adorn the port and starboard sides barely emitted a glow as the same for all the navigation lights. The only water tight doors I could see that weren't encased in ice were the two that faced aft to the tow deck. The aft decks themselves had such a thick layer of ice, the scuppers buried solid, that it was actually transformed into a flush deck. Even the enormous winch had ice packed on it. What a site she was, she still held all this weight and had kept her trim with no apparent list. With her axillaries humming from deep within, she appeared to be a frozen ghost from the past. I completely forgot about trolling, too busy just gaping at what I was seeing. As dawn arrived the scene took on a whole new significance. I continued to "troll" between the tug and barge, gear still deployed so I had an excuse to be in the area. All I really was doing was looking at an epic tale of survival, having read but never seeing something of this magnitude. As usual, I did not have a camera on hand.
I remember never seeing any activity outside on the tug; no one was chipping ice or clearing the decks. No wonder. I predict the crew was just glad to be alive and probably in a well deserved, long overdue, deep sleep. What a story they could tell, what a nightmare it must have been to be caught in the Gulf on such a sudden winter storm. I tried to imagine the sea conditions to produce these kinds of results. Of having only 3 small spinner windows as their sole vision outward to an unimaginable site of dark, frozen fury. To see she was icing badly but to have no way on earth to safely combat it. To know of an enormous barge lunging in the blackness some 1500 to 2000 feet astern, capable of pulling them under at any second. Even if they had to cut the tow wire, how could they safely gain the deck for the task? The relief they must have felt to gain Cape Spencer and Icy Straits, onward to a safe harbor called Hoonah to lick their wounds and gather themselves. Whether this is part fact or fiction, I can only surmise based upon what I know I would be feeling after such an episode.
The men and women who work the tugs that ply our coast, be it the inland passage or the open sea, rarely get any recognition. We see them while on the grounds, sometimes from afar and other times doing our best to give them the space they need. Without them our communities would be in a world of hurts in short order. Few realize just how much of a vital service they provide. This was an extreme storm that developed quicker than a vessel such as this could have outrun. Think of how many weather days we spend tied up in port, meanwhile, the iron men and women of the coastal trade keep to an amazing precise schedule. Our stores restocked, tank farms topped off, that load of new gear we ordered from down south etc. Day in and day out, week after week, year round they provide our lifeline to comfort, commerce and convenience. I have always had a respect for them, even as a young salt growing up on Puget Sound. After seeing this site that respect gained new heights. To this day if I meet one of them, I offer my hand and give them a sincere "thank you" for the service they provide. Happy Holidays all, may the lee side find you safe and well.
Eric Van Cise - F/V New Hope - Sitka
yak2you2
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Re: Of Tugs and Ice

Post by yak2you2 »

Amazing story Eric, and your absolutely right, all of us in these coastal communties owe these folks a huge debt of gratitude for all they go through to provide timely freight deliveries to us. It takes courage and an iron will to get the job done in such extereme conditions, they could be getting paid the same to sit it out in some quite bay but they don't, they push on because they know people are depending on them. Hats off to them for a job well done.
Yakutat is another one of those ports that people run for when the weather comes up. Your story has reminded me of helping pack sheets of plywood down to help board up the blown out bridge windows of the Alaska state ferry Tustemina when she came limping in late one winter evening. Like you, I was in absolute awe of the sight. The bow had to be 50 to 60 feet above the waterline, the bridge windows higher than that. What must a demon possessed sea that did that have looked like? The sea is the most powerful force on earth and seeing things like that will certainly make you believe it. I'm sure glad I wasn't on it.
Makes you appreciate having your feet up by the fire some days, thanks again for the story and happy holidays!!
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