Commercial Salmon Trolling Forum

Hull vs. line voltage

Troubleshooting, repair, and how-to's related to marine systems.

Re: Hull vs. line voltage

Postby Scotthmt » Sat Mar 21, 2015 11:52 am

I just splashed my boat the other day the numbers I got were
In the water engine off battery on .95x
In water engine on .85x

New zincs new bottom paint, rear painted with bottom of the can.

The numbers were climbing slowly on the thousandths, .851, .852, .853 etc etc

I think it's where it should be, I haven't done a in gear number run yet.
Posts: 56
Joined: Fri Apr 04, 2014 4:02 pm

Re: Hull vs. line voltage

Postby Lulu » Mon Mar 23, 2015 2:45 pm

I'm told that the target hull potential at the dock is over .800 volts. Looks like you're in the range. One last reading is with the boat in gear at the dock. I loose about .04 volts with this reading. The reason is the prop is pulling water over the hull which causes the electrons freed from the galvanic activity to flow in a more linear direction (i.e. behind the boat) vs at the dock were the electrons are attracted to the zinc, giving the slightly higher reading.

Just checked shaft brush connections. Had to make a new lead cause everything was rushed and dirty. Another project! Check rudder bonding.
Posts: 136
Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2015 10:46 am

Re: Hull vs. line voltage

Postby Abenal » Tue Dec 13, 2016 5:11 pm

Regarding Lulu's posts about bottom paint: I'm getting hauled and sandblasted this winter or early spring. I will use 2 coats of Ameron 235 epoxy for a barrier coat, then apply the antifouling bottom paint over that. The professional painter has in stock bulk Ameron 214 ablative bottom paint with a copper content of 68%. Would this high copper content ablative paint work as well as the Trinidad Pro hard bottom paint Lulu used? I asked the painter about using Trinidad Pro hard bottom paint and he wasn't sure that it would adhere to the epoxy barrier coat. He knows that his Ameron 214 ablative is compatible with and adheres to the Ameron 235 epoxy barrier coat.

My point is: isn't the copper content of the bottom paint what is important here? Or am I missing something about the hard paint versus ablative? Of course this is all from a fishing perspective and how the bottom paint affects the electrical field around the boat.

I'm trying to get in touch with Ameron tech support to find out if the two paints are compatible, they will probably tell me to use their version of bottom paint instead of Pettit Trinidad Pro.

Thanks for any comments or input that you might have.
Junior Member
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2016 4:07 pm


Return to Mechanical & Electrical

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest