Boat rigging

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MKP
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Boat rigging

Post by MKP »

Hello Gents,

I bought a Salmon Permit a few years ago(just before they closed the season). We are finally getting a salmon this year and I want to rig the boat for salmon trolling. I have zero salmon trolling experience beyond sport trolling. My boat is a Roberts 32 Bristol Bay boat(gill net gear is long gone). I was initially planning to start with only two lines this year. In the future I would like to add poles and expand the operation. If I go this way i want to make sure I start building the system to accommodate 4 lines.

I've been studying other boats to get a plan but would like some serious input from some pros. I am fairly handy with fab work and hydraulics and intend to build the system myself. I have a set of 2 spool kolstrand gurdies plus 4 single spool gurdies. My current plan is to build two davits out of 1.5" SS schedule 80 pipe, fit each with two single spool gurdies and two blocks. The block for the inboard line will have a kolstrand shock absorber mount. Outboard will use spring mounted on the pole.

I've attached a picture of the boat. I would greatly appreciate suggests on how to rig this thing.

A few questions i have so far are:

What are the best davit shape?
What is the best davit position? Height? Reach? distance from stern?

How long should the poles be?
What size?
Should stays tot he bow be rigid or wire?
The boat has a no mast, only a stout radar arch that is about 10' above the gunnel. Is this tall enough for a topping lift?

Do i need stabilizers? How do I size them out?

Who is a good supplier of commercial gear now that kostrand is gone?

Thanks in advance!

Mike
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Once and Future
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Re: Boat rigging

Post by Once and Future »

Jeez, Mike. You're going to have to narrow your focus a bit if you want any response. I would be the wrong guy to ask anyway, but it usually doesn't work to ask total strangers for all the knowledge they have built up over a lifetime in the same paragraph where you introduce yourself for the first time. I offer this advice as I am sure you are disappointed you haven't received any responses and I think this is why.
Salty
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Re: Boat rigging

Post by Salty »

I would suggest some specifics but I have been fishing and am just in briefly turning around. Later.
packy
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Re: Boat rigging

Post by packy »

Here is a Hayrack system I would look at. With no pit this would work out well for your boat and give you the ability to have a roof too. Very simple really and easy to build. I have rigged 4 trollers now from the deck up. I could offer my consulting services to you for a small fee. I am not doing anything at the moment your boat would be fun to rig up LOL!
There are also a nice set of aluminum poles 38 ft long on ebay for $750 or best offer, they would be perfect for your boat. Give me a PM I would love to talk to you.
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MKP
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Re: Boat rigging

Post by MKP »

Once and Future,
I apologize if I appear to be trying to steal your life's knowledge. I am just looking for some feedback on my plan. Was hoping to find some input from someone who has done this before.

Packy,
Thanks for the response. I would love to hear some ideas on the theories behind rigging a troller. What is the benefit of the hayrack over davits? I have been thinking about the davit plan because I can easily remove them for crab season. Would love to chat about the topic with you. I love my job last week so I'm not sure how much of a consultation fee i can scrounge up. I think it would be worth while though, before I start pouring time and material into this project.

thanks

Mike
packy
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Re: Boat rigging

Post by packy »

Mike
I sent you a PM call me
A hayrack just unbolts from the deck and you lift off gurdies and all, right off. Ready to go for next fishery In my opinion that's the way to go. The hayrack I posted is also on a boat that crabs.
Many of the boats that do both (troll and crab) that have no trolling pits, set up the same way. You have quick disconnects on Hydraulics and you undo those and a few bolts and you are good to go. As goes for my fee I really wasn't all that serious about that LOL! Give me a call love to talk to you.
mydona
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Re: Boat rigging

Post by mydona »

I would think that the hay rack would be the better choice. After you remove the davits you'll still have the gurdies on deck and fouling the pots. With the hay rack, a few bolts and quick connect hydraulics lines, your decks will be cleared and ready for action. Poles... best look around and you'll see that your radar rack will probably be too small and you will have problems pulling your poles back up. Think about the mechanic's and leverage's involved in pulling a 30' pole. Although many smaller (shorter and lighter poled) "day fisher" cuddy cabin boats get by with your type of rack. My poles are 2 parts. A tip for trolling and a lower section that is permitally mounted that the stabie is attached to. (I remove the tips for the dive season) Stabies- YES calms your boat's roll (being a 3.5 -4' draft) preventing the hooks from being ripped from the fishes mouth. And I might add keeps the crew much more happy and increases fishing time. I see you have a low railing on the stearn ... bad... gotta have something at least hip-waist high. (notice Packy's pic). Enough for now. Get out on the docks and see how others have gotten their boats rigged. Good Luck.
packy
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Re: Boat rigging

Post by packy »

Mike,
Because you really have no where to mount a mast, and cross tree, on your deck. The pictures I have posted here is a good example. How I would go about rigging your Trolling poles and cross tree assembly it would all bolt on to the top of your house. You wouldn't have to build it exactly like they have, but this is a really good example to build from. The Trolling poles I have mentioned would fit right into this system with the exception of maybe just shorting them up a little. Like I said before your boat could become a great little Troller with the right set up.
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Salty
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Re: Boat rigging

Post by Salty »

Wow,
Great response here. I don't have anything to add. Good sharing.
MKP
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Re: Boat rigging

Post by MKP »

Nice looking setup Packy. Thanks!
I think this is the same boat: http://oregoncoast.craigslist.org/boa/1739811462.html

Just got back in from two days of halibut fishing. I'll give you a call tomorrow greg.
packy
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Re: Boat rigging

Post by packy »

Yes that is the same boat, I got those pictures off oregonfishpermits.com. found a boat to fish, a 36' Wooden Troller the "Mickey Sue" and I am leaving for Garibaldi today. I will be fishing the rest of the summer and fall. If you have any questions give me a call or if you just want to pick my brain feel free. Would love to help how ever I can.
carojae
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Re: Boat rigging

Post by carojae »

For the back deck, having a aluminum hayrack complete with a roof is always nice; some refer to these as a aluminum house. It's a nice way to keep the clutter out of the working area. It is also functional to store things on top, like your life raft or dingy. Here is what mine looks like. The box in the middle houses my navigational monitor from my laptop, pilot and throttle.
As for the poles, I would add that old timers use to tell me for the mains use no longer than the length of your boat. 32' boat, 32 ' poles. I think it's a good ratio.

Image
Salty
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Re: Boat rigging

Post by Salty »

Wow, that shelter deck looks almost exactly like mine.

I have always wondered why the formula for pole length. Why not 45' on a 42 foot boat? I just extended mine from 38', the boat length, to 44'. The extra length gives me more spread for use with the bow poles.
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Re: Boat rigging

Post by SteelheadStalker »

I also need help rigging a 26ft fiberform...I've got all the gear just don't know where to attach stays or springs or any of that....I'm in grants pass and can pay consulting fee..
Lulu
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Re: Boat rigging

Post by Lulu »

MKP, best advice is to walk the docks and draw off the best practices of successful boats. Poles are generally equal to the length of the boat, but that isn't written in stone. Considerations are maneuvering in a crowded harbor, side tying to other boats, ease of moving around the boat. Best rule of thumb is keep it simple and easy to fix. If you have a small boat, consider the weight of the metal added to the boat, you don't want to loose too much of your buoyancy. It adds up when you have fuel, ice, fish, gurdies, etc on board and not enough horsepower to keep you out of trouble. Shit happens at the worst moment. Be safe.
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Re: Boat rigging

Post by Lulu »

Salty, my boat is 40 feet and the poles are 38 feet. You have a better spread with longer poles; which you have found. But I think the more important feature is getting the floppers further from the boat to slow the roll. Longer poles also keep the snooter leaders from tangling with the heavies in most conditions. Heavy side currents mean I need to pull the snooters or add spreaders on the heavies before loosing a fortune in gear. You could decrease the angle of the poles relative to the waterline, with the consideration of not dragging a pole in the trough. generally 45 degree angle is good (i.e. safe) but you might get away with something between 45 and 30 degrees. Something to think about. I've been thinking about adding another 5 degrees by lengthening the stiff arms about 6 inches.
Salty
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Re: Boat rigging

Post by Salty »

Lulu,
I think many trollers do not let the poles down far enough. I agree on getting the stables out far enough. My son, kjwelder, is just finishing rigging poles on his boat. Send him a pm..
curmudgeon
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Re: Boat rigging

Post by curmudgeon »

Karl couldn't stay away! :-)
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